Sabroso restaurant review: The Asian food hub with strong and flavoursome Japanese offerings

You would never catch me spending a dollar at the casino, but when it comes to buying trading cards, it is a whole different story. Pan-Asian cuisine restaurants are the Pokemon cards of the food world. Whether I’m pulling a Pikachu I’ve seen way too many times before or eating a dubious stir-fry — it’s always a gamble. I entered Sabroso in Subiaco with a familiar seesaw of excitement and apprehension. The restaurant opened a couple of months ago and the kitchen is spearheaded by ex-Bari Uma and Wei’s Dumpling Hut chef Moe Zaw. The introductory offer of 20 per cent off was enticing enough for me to put the restaurant on my radar. But once I heard about Mr Zaw’s involvement in two very loved eateries of mine, my expectations rose. The Sabroso fried chicken ($9) was outstanding. The airy crunch to the karaage-style chicken with the slightest hint of tom yum paste was excellent. I was equally impressed with the homemade spring rolls ($11). I usually skip spring rolls because it’s no secret most Chinese restaurants get them straight from the frozen section of the oriental store. But these rolls were stuffed and pushed the crispy casing to its absolute capacity. Our complimentary bowl of prawn crackers was served with the biggest smile ever. Despite, the restaurant having just one other table of diners during our sitting, the service was jolly, and we never felt lonely. We also ordered the pad thai ($18), which lacked its signature “wok-breath” aroma and could do with a bit more tamarind. It was served with a lemon wedge, and after big fat squeeze, it recovered a little, but it did not taste as good as it looked. The teriyaki chicken ($22) was a lot stronger. It had a charred fragrance to it and was covered in a light glaze. Mr Zaw said he was going for a healthier approach to teriyaki chicken – opting for breast pieces and cutting all the pre-made cheat codes. I liked the vision, but people seeking out something a little cheekier may want to look elsewhere on the menu. Overall, Sabroso’s strength lies in its Japanese offerings. It is a jack of all trades and a master of some. The restaurant beats a lot of the pan-Asian offerings in the area, so for a one-stop shop on this side of Perth, it’s a solid bet. Sabroso Food of Asia 12/375 Hay Street, Subiaco Open Mon-Fri: 11.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-9pm Sat: 5pm-9pm Contact 0478 784 393 Bookings Yes The Verdict One for the groups that just can’t decide between pad thai or ramen. At Sabroso, you can have both. 14/20